Textile Crafts

bagh print
Bagh print design

​Bagh Print

Hello U,

We present you with the Indian handicraft, BAGH PRINT, from the village of Dhar. Bagh is a small tribal village in Madhya Pradesh that is known for its hand-block printed textiles. According to folklore, The village of Bagh, which is located on the banks of the Bagh River, gave it its name to the craft.

Bagh print is a hand-printed woodblock relief print with organically based dyes that originated in Bagh. The themes are frequently geometric, paisley, or floral designs dyed with red [alum] and black [rustic iron] vegetable colors on a white background. Tribal residents were the only ones who wore these Bagh-patterned garments at first.

The Khatri community, who are thought to have imported this trade from Sindh 400 years ago, do the majority of the printing. Only high-quality timbers like Sagwan and Sheesham are used by the Bagh printers. The Khatri family has thousands of blocks that have been passed down through the years and are kept separately and meticulously maintained, even if they are damaged or broken.

On a white background, geometrical and floral motifs are alternately printed in red and black dyes. Flowers, mango, coconut, zig-zag lines, and honey bees are among Bagh's most popular motifs.

he Bagh printing process is time-consuming and involves 6 stages, which starts from preparing the fabric by soaking it for 2 hours followed by myrobalan treatment of the fabric, printing, washing, application of red dye and giving it a final wash.

After drying, the fabric is washed again 3-4 times. This process is called tapai.

Each block print is distinct in its own right, and Bagh printing holds a special place in our history and hearts. As pioneers of India's rich cultural legacy, it is our job to honour, maintain, and develop these crafts. U&Me takes great care to guarantee that these beautiful patterns are well-loved. Our website has a large section of bagh block printed collections in saris, suits and bedsheets.

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bagru print
Bagru print design

​Bagru Print

Hello U,

We present you BAGRU,

In the state's depths of Rajasthan, there is a small peculiar village called Bagru that is only known for maintaining alive the three-century-old printing heritage. "Bagru printing" refers to the unique and beautiful efforts of artists who employ these hardwood blocks in their own unique style and use indigenous printing procedures.

It is a time-consuming technique that necessitates a great deal of expertise, patience, and tolerance on the part of the artist. The pattern is printed on teak-wood blocks that have been soaked in oil overnight and then washed before being put to use. These block collections are regarded to be the real wealth of Chhipas that they have accumulated over time. After that, the fabric is soaked in Fuller's earth and then dipped in turmeric water to achieve a yellow tone. To soften the fabric, it is soaked in a solution of clay and other chemicals and then dried before being utilised for printing. To get the appealing prints, neat stamping is essential.

The dyed fabric is then stamped with blocks, which are gorgeous designs. The fabric's base colour is commonly bland colours like white, cream, and beige, as well as natural colours. The material is let to dry in the sun after printing for a final touch-up. Aath Kaliya, Chopard, and Kamal are some of the themes featured in Bagru printing.

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batik print
Batik print design

​Batik Print

Hello U,

We present you BATIK,

Batik is a global textile craft known for its distinctive wax printing technique. It is an ancient fabric wax-resist dyeing tradition of Java , Indonesia.

Batik fabric goes through multiple stages of waxing, dyeing, and dewaxing to achieve colorful wax strokes and complex designs.

The important attribute of Batik is the cracks that appear in the design due to the wax. As the wax is frail, it cracks easily and the dye enters the waxed area. This creates a spider web design in places where the wax has been applied. Normally, fabrics in pure form like pure cotton or silk is used for batik dyeing. This is because any mix in the fabric can hamper the effect of the color on the cloth after washing.

Batik is an ancient and intricate art form with roots in Southeast Asia that has been practiced for over 2.000 years. The term 'Batik' basically translates to 'wax writing.' It's a process for printing and dyeing cloth that involves adding a coat of wax to the fabric, then dying it in various colors such that the wax resist technique generates a unique and attractive design once the wax is washed away.

The term "Batik" comes from the Javanese word "Ambatik," which simply means "little dots or writing on cloth." Batik is the most expressive art form of all the 'resists' approaches historically. The growing number of techniques available allows creative designers and expert artisans to apply this technology in a variety of ways.

Batik is a labor of love - Geometric patterns, consisting of interlacing circles and other shapes, have been passed down through the centuries. Then there are designs that incorporate characters, animals, or plants, which are becoming more trendy.

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chanderi
Chanderi

​Chanderi

Hello U,

We present you CHANDERI,

Chanderi is a small village situated near the Betwa River in the Vindyachal mountains. Chanderi, in Madhya Pradesh's Ashoknagar district, is noted for its ancient legacy and has developed with intensive economic activity due to its strategic location in Central India.

Chanderi is a century-old weaving process that generates three types of fabric: Chanderi silk cotton, pure silk, and Chanderi Cotton. It is known for its glossy transparency and sheer texture. Chanderi is a light fabric that is ideal for the summer. It comes in a variety of vibrant colors and has a subtle gloss to it, making it suitable for both men and women. Chanderi is a fabric made of cotton, light silk, and zari.

Chanderi is a town of looms . The looms, also known as the Bunkaar colony, are concentrated in the older portion of town, known as "Bahar Shahar" or "outside town." When exploring the mohallas (residential neighbourhoods) of Chanderi, you can easily hear the reverberating sounds of the working looms. Weaving was highly favoured by the rulers of Chanderi. It was as if they were aware that Chanderi's fortune is linked to the fortune of the fabric they weaved.

The Chanderi fabrics were originally made with handspun cotton warp and weft. The British, however, imported cheaper cotton from Manchester with the arrival of the industrial revolution, eroding the market for Chanderi items. Weavers switched to silk as a warp as a result of it. The tana, or warp, is a stretched-out group of threads through which the bana, or weft, is weaved back and forth across the length of the cloth.

The butis, or designs, on Chanderi fabric, were woven with needles on a handloom. Previously, two weavers had to sit together to make a single saree. However, after the invention of the Fly Shuttle loom, a single person can now weave a saree.

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Dabu print
Dabu Print

​Dabu Print

Hello U,

We present you DABU,

Dabu is a Rajasthani mud resist hand block printing technique. This art style is thought to have been introduced to Bagru by the Chippa community 450 years ago. Chippa refers to a riverfront community that stamps or prints work together. The riverbank provided them with clay, which is an essential component of the printing process. The community has now spread throughout Rajasthan. Akola is one of the most important printing clusters.

The name ‘Dabu’ is derived from the word ‘Dabaana’ which means to press.

Printing is a complicated procedure that involves several stages of printing, washing, and dying. The plain fabric is first cleaned to remove any contaminants that could affect the coloring process. Then, using wooden blocks, designs are printed on the fabric. The motifs, which are carved on the wooden blocks, are inspired by nature and surrounding elements.

The following step is to make the mud paste, which is an important and distinctive part of the procedure. It's a thick paste made of mud, gum, lime, and waste chaff that's spread over specific areas of the pattern and cured with sawdust sprinkled on top.

The fabric is then sun-dried after this process. To give each element of the design a different tone, the fabric is sometimes dyed many times in different hues.

U&Me takes great care to guarantee that these beautiful patterns are well-loved. Our website has a section of Dabu lenin block printed collections.

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maheshwar
Maheshwar

​Maheshwar

Hello U,

We present you MAHESHWAR,

Maheshwar is a historic town located on the banks of the sacred Narmada River. Some of the eclectic fusions that make Maheshwar a more multi-dimensional and admired site to visit in Madhya Pradesh include a historical fort where the Holkar dynasty ruled, a year-round pilgrimage, and finally, the settlement of traditional weavers of Maheshwari fabric.

Ahilya Bai is thought to have fashioned the very first Maheshwari sari. The queen, who was a designer herself, hired talented handloom weavers from Surat and Mandu to work for her empire in 1760. They were given the task of preparing turban fabric and rare nine-yard nauvari saris for the Malwa court's females to wear and to give as gifts to the royal guests. Maheshwari saris have long been noted for their subtlety and high quality, and they have always emanated dignity and elegance!

Previously, Maheshwari saris were crafted of the finest cotton yarns, with designs inspired by the intricate carvings on the fort and temples of Maheshwar. The fabric for the sari is now woven with a blend of Coimbatore cotton and Bangalore silk yarns, with newer and more graceful designs embossed on it, such as rui phool (cotton blossom), chameli (jasmine), hans (swan), and heera (diamond). The sari has a reversible border as well as the distinctive five stripes on the pallu or aanchal. Despite this, the border is normally constructed with zari thread originating from Surat. Tapkeer (dark brown), aamras (golden yellow), and angoori are some of the colours utilised in weaving (grape green).

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sanganer
Sanganer Print

​Sanganer Print

Hello U,

We present you SANGANER,

Sanganer is a village about 30 kilometers from Jaipur. The name of the craft form comes from the place. The base of the cloth is the fundamental difference between Bagru and Sanganer prints. Sanganer print is done on white background.

Sanganer's printing process is known around the world for its vibrant colours and unusual designs. Sanganeri block printing is a hand-block printing method that dates back to the 5th century.

The motifs of the Sanganeri print have several influences including Mughal ones. You can see a charming blend of bel, flowers, buds and leaves. You will also see versions of the mango motif, betel leaf and even jhumkas embedded in these motifs. Normally, the corners or the border of the fabric are embellished with bel patterns while the inside has a variety of motifs.

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​Textile Surface Techniques

block printing
Blocks

​​​Block Printing

Hello U,

We present you Block print,

Block printing is a technique of printing patterns by means of wooden blocks. Each pattern or image is created by engraved a wooden block to leave only some areas and lines at the original level.

It is the earliest, simplest and slowest of all methods of textile printing. Block printing by hand is a slow process. It is, however, capable of yielding highly artistic results, some of which are unobtainable by any other method.

The pattern can contain just single color or several colors. The cloth is usually first printed throughout with one, then dried, re-wound, and printed with the second, the same operations being repeated until all the colors are printed.

For the printing, the fabric is kept quite smooth and perfectly flat, next has the design is drawn upon, or transferred to it. This latter is effected by rubbing off, upon its flat surface, a tracing in lampblack and oil, of the outlines of the masses of the design. The portions to be left in relief are then tinted, between their outlines, and ammoniacal carmine or magenta, for the purpose of distinguishing them from those portions that have to be cut away. As a separate block is required for each distinct color in the design, a separate tracing must be made of each and transferred (or put on as it a termed) to its own special block.

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